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  3. Documented Garment Exemplars
  4. 2010s

2010s

Aitor Throup X Umbro Archive Research Project Ramsey Jacket of cotton, nylon and elastane

Front view of a jacket.
Rear view of a jacket.

Object number: Westminster Menswear Archive: WMA2018.14

Designer/Maker/Manufacturer/Retailer: Aitor Throup (designer); manufactured for Umbro

Manufacturer: Unknown

Manufactured for: Umbro

Production country of the garment and components: Italy

Production date: 2011

Description: Grey jacket with detachable zipped hood and white detailing. It has a white waterproof zip, white taped internal seams and an internal elastic pull across the back. There are two front invisible zip pockets and an internal pocket on the left-hand side with invisible zip. Grey and white striped knitted ribbing has been inserted at the front neckline and front and side waistband. There is a grey knitted ribbing section around the armhole allowing for extra movement alongside two underarm eyelets on the body. It has a three-piece detachable hood with face flap that fastens with press studs, stiff peak and white elastic pull cord.

Context: In 2011 Umbro, in collaboration with Aitor Thorp, following on from their 2009 England Home Kit and 2010 Away Kit, launched the Archive Research Project. For this project Throup reworked seven iconic archive pieces, including the legendary 1966 Ramsey Jacket, inspired by England footballer and manager Sir Alf Ramsey (1920–99), and Aztec football shirt, focusing on ergonomics and anatomy. The research process involved considering what made the original so popular, then designing each item around casts of footballers in a number of poses to look at the points at which articulation was most important.

Labels/Inscriptions: EUR/USA.

Internal Label: Body: 51% cotton 44% nylon 5% elastane. Rib: 100% cotton. Umbro/Aitor Throup Archive Research Project. Factory code 2222. Made in Italy. RN109787-CA-07820.

Methods:

  • Fibre manufacture: Farmed (cotton); extruded (nylon; elastane)
  • Yarn manufacture: Spun
  • Fabric construction: Woven (body), knitted (rib)
  • Garment Construction: Stitched, taped

Material: 51% cotton, 44% nylon 5% elastane (body); 100% cotton (rib)

Measurements: Length 69cm

Source: Purchase

More information on this object: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/2018-14

Front view of the inner seams of a jacket.
Rear view of the inner seams of a jacket.

Protective undershirt of modal, aramid, elastane and carbon fibre

Front view of a protective undershirt.
Rear view of a protective undershirt.

Object number: MoDiP: AIBDC 007097

Designer/Maker/Manufacturer/Retailer: Sparco S.p.A. (designer and retailer)

Production country of the garment and components: Italy

Production date: 2015

Description: An undershirt designed as protective clothing for racing car drivers, intended to protect the wearer from heat and flames for a limited period, conforming to regulatory standards of safety. The shirt has a high neck; the body is of circular knitted construction with feature seams in grey thread. The shirt has been chemically treated with x-Cool Silver treatment which provides 'an efficient reduction in body temperature and a cooling sensation enriched with an innovative anti-bacterial treatment'. Under the terms of the warranty wearers are advised that the materials are light sensitive and should not be exposed to direct light sources or sunlight for excessive periods of time. A warning is given that light may cause colour changes and start the aging process of the material. It is likely that the 1% carbon fibre relates to the thread used for the stitching.

Context: Sparco is a company dedicated to giving motorsport more safety and more style. Fire resistance is provided by the aramid, known also as Nomex® and Kevlar, which has a very high melting point and low flammability. It is a difficult material to work and will have been blended with polynosic rayon (modal viscose) to facilitate its use. Polynosic rayon is a high strength rayon fibre that makes a luxurious fabric, cool to the touch, absorbent, and similar in texture to silk or cotton. Carbon fibre is stronger than steel. Its fibres can be thinner than human hair and only burn at extreme temperatures.

Labels/Inscriptions: Printed centre front on high neck: sparco; lower left front: X-COOL SILVER.

Woven label sewn to outside back of shirt: In compliance with F.I.A standards 8856.2000 sparco™.

Printed label sewn into hem: sparco SIZE M/L 69% Modal Viscose. 28% Aramid 1% Carbon Fibre. 2% Elastane. Designed and Manufactured in ITALY. With care graphics indicating it can be washed at 30 degrees but not dry cleaned.

Methods:

  • Fibre manufacture: Extruded
  • Yarn manufacture: Filament, twisted
  • Fabric construction: Knitted
  • Garment Construction: Stitched

Material: 69 %modal (polynosic viscose rayon); 28% aramid; 2% elastane; 1% carbon fibre

Measurements: Length centre back 70cm

Source: Purchase

More information on this object: https://www.modip.ac.uk/artefact/aibdc-007097

Close view of the printed label on an undershirt.
Front view of the packaging of an undershirt.
Close view of the fabric of an undershirt.

Salvatore Ferragamo shirt and skirt of woven Orange Fiber viscose and silk

Front view of a long sleeved shirt.
Rear view of a long sleeved shirt.

Object number: V&A: T.1710:1, 2-2017

Designer/Maker/Manufacturer/Retailer: Salvatore Ferragamo S.p.A. (designer, manufacturer and retailer; print designed by Mario Trimarchi)

Production country of the garment and components: Italy (garments designed and constructed)

Spain (yarn spun), Italy (textile woven)

Production date: 2017

Description: An outfit comprising a shirt and skirt of silk and Orange fiber twill printed with a pattern in black and white. The fabric is fine and lightweight and feels and behaves much like pure silk. Orange fiber is a type of viscose rayon.

Context: This outfit is from a capsule collection released by Ferragamo on 22 April 2017 to coincide with Earth Day. The collection was the first example of commercially available garments made from Orange Fiber. Ferragamo chose to launch the Orange fiber capsule collection on Earth Day to highlight the reduced environmental impact of the fibre in comparison with conventional fibres: Orange fiber utilises a waste material (citrus skins) and repurposes it. It can be made in a closed-loop system.

Labels/Inscriptions: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO. MADE WITH ORANGE FIBER. EXTERNAL FABRIC: 67% CELLULOSIC FIBRE/ 33% SILK. MADE IN ITALY.         

Methods:

  • Fibre manufacture: Extruded
  • Yarn manufacture: Twisted
  • Fabric construction: Woven (silk warp, Orange Fiber weft)
  • Garment Construction: Stitched

Material: 67% orange Fiber (cellulosic fibre), 33% silk

Measurements: Width 48cm

Source: Given by Salvatore Ferragamo S. p. A.

More information on this object: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1407615/skirt-salvatore-ferragamo-spa/

Close view of the fabric of a long sleeved dress.

RubyMoon Rash Guard top of Econyl® nylon and Lycra® Xtra Life™ elastane

Front view of a rash guard.
Rear view of a rash guard.

Object number: MoDiP AIBDC: 008185

Designer/Maker/Manufacturer/Retailer: RubyMoon (designer of garment and manufacturer); Arnett, Sarah (designer of print)

Production country of the garment and components: Spain

Production date: circa 2018

Description: A long sleeved, high-necked, stretchy top designed to be worn in the water, as a cover up out of the water, and at the gym. The top bears a decorative print entitled Tropical Verve on a blue and black background. It has a short zip at the back up to its high neck. The material is 78% recycled nylon (Econyl®) and 22% polyurethane (Lycra® Xtra life™).

Context: This garment is part of the RubyMoon Gym to Swim® collection which aims to tackle plastics pollution and focuses on the look, construction and fit to create the best fitness wear possible using chlorine resistant, durable, high quality fabric.

The recycled polyamide is a material called Econy®l which is made from used fishing nets and other regenerated material. RubyMoon is a partner of Healthy Seas (healthyseas.org) which collects drifting or 'ghost' nets and ensures they become a valuable resource. The fabrics use waste-reducing printing and dyeing techniques and are certified Oekotex and vegan meaning no harmful chemicals are used.

Labels/Inscriptions: Printed on woven labels, sewn inside right hip: RUBYMOON 78% nylon / polyamide/ polyamid 22% elastanne / elastane Trim excluded. Made in Spain and with washing instructions.

Method:

  • Fibre manufacture: Extruded
  • Thread manufacture: Spun
  • Fabric construction: Knitted
  • Garment construction: Stitched

Material: 78% nylon / polyamide/PA (regenerated) (Trade name: Econyl®); 22% elastane; (Trade name: Lycra® Xtra Life™)

Measurements: Length centre back 59 cm

Source: Purchase

More information on this object: https://www.modip.ac.uk/artefact/aibdc-008185

Close view of the neck of a rash guard.
Close view of the neck of a rash guard.
Close view of the label of a rash guard.
Close view of the fabric of a rash guard.

Vollebak Graphene Jacket, one side of graphene coated polyurethane, the other of a nylon and elastane blend

Front view of a jacket.
Rear view of a jacket.

Object number: Westminster Menswear Archive: WMA.2019.109

Designer/Maker/Manufacturer/Retailer: Vollebak (designer); manufactured for Vollebak

Production country of the garment and components: Portugal

Production date: 2019

Description: Fully reversible jacket with hood and two-way waterproof YKK zip closure at centre front. All panels are laser-cut, bonded and the seams are sealed. The jacket has two laser-cut reversible front pockets and a peaked hood with elasticated drawcord hem edge. There is an adjustable drawcord at the waist and the sleeve shape has been designed with extra underarm panelling for articulation. There are welded eyelets under the arms. The cuffs are laser-cut and bonded. Taped seams. Size M. One side of the jacket is made of polyurethane coated with graphene. If this is worn next to the body it will help equalize skin temperature by sending heat from the hotter bits of the body to the colder. It will also increase body temperature by 2 degrees centigrade. The other side is of high strength and high stretch nylon. If worn next to the body, it converts the jacket into a lightweight running jacket.

Context: Technical characteristics: Fabric is heat conductive and heat retaining. Waterproof to 10,000mm. Breathability rating: RET 12 (very breathable). Graphene is the world’s thinnest material. It is bacteriostatic, anti-static, certified non-toxic and hypoallergenic. Windproof. Four way stretch to the fabric.

Labels/Inscriptions: Printed onto grey Graphene side: VOLLEBAK / GRAPHENE JACKET / MADE IN PORTUGAL / M / The inside of the jacket is constructed from a water-resistant Graphene membrane combined with polyurethane. The jacket's outer face is built from 85% Polyamide and 15% elastane.

Methods: 

  • Fibre manufacture: Extruded (nylon; elastane); unknown (graphene; polyurethane)  
  • Yarn manufacture: Spun (nylon; elastane); unknown (graphene; polyurethane)
  • Fabric construction: Woven (nylon; elastane); unknown (graphene; polyurethane)         
  • Garment Construction: Bonded

Material: Graphene coated polyurethane (inner); 85% nylon (polyamide) and15% elastane (outer)

Measurements: Length 78cm

Source: Purchase

More information on this object: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/2019-109-2

Close view of a label of a jacket.
Close view of the underarm of a jacket.

2020s >